Channel Drains

[Seascape]

What do you guys know about channel drains? I will be installing one in the near future. This particular drain is on pavement in front of a garage that is 40' long. My prelimanry calculations are that i will be using a 5" channel w/ a 3" outlet (unless i can find one w/ a 4") that will drop into a 4" run of 50' and run into a storm drain.

My initial search for suppliers and distributers was slim pickin but im sure i can find parts local in my area. My goal w/ this thread is to further educate myself on options (products) before i go shopping. Any links or information you guys can contribute would be greatly appreciated.

[Ric]

Trout

Try you local swimming pool builder for a source of channel. Every Swimming pool has channel drains if it is build haft way right. However they are generally installed before the cement is poured.

[Seascape]

Trout

Try you local swimming pool builder for a source of channel. Every Swimming pool has channel drains if it is build haft way right. However they are generally installed before the cement is poured.

Thanks Tinker Bell. Im looking for something along these lines but will find something locally i can touch smell and feel before buying.

Ever installed one?



CHANNEL DRAINS

[TRANSMAN]

Ric Roach?

Trout
is build haft way right.

More proof the granade did indeed go off to close to Ric Roaches head.I`ll play your game and ask you questions ,oh wise one. What is "haft way right" Do you mean HALF,(one) of two equal parts? or have you invented a new word for the english language. I hate to appear to be the jerk but,you claim to want to reteach me english as well what format i should be writeing with.What exactly does haft mean.Does it have somthing to do with the young peasant girls you want me to give you and lorenzo as presents.I also like your "try you local swimming pool builder" I believe the word is your! Maybe you should check your english before correcting mine you goofball. SINCERELY ,TRANS.

[steve-o]

well mike, i see this thread is off to a good start. come on guys lets at least give the man an answer. this sounds like a good one that we can all prosper on.

steve

[TRANSMAN]

Sorry Seascape

Sorry Mike.Didnt mean to ruin your thread but the dummy you usually have problems with felt like starting up with me again. He makes me sick with his "better than everyone" else mentality. I`m sure you know what i mean with his neverending "trout" nonsence. Did you get anything out of his two sentence advice anyway?I wouldnt think a man in his 60`s would feel the need to compete and tear down others, but it seems it never stops with him.SINCERELY,TRANS

[SodBuster]

I use the flowmaster deck drain 10 foot X 4" sections. Set with mason string to grade by nailing through the continuous web, that runs along the base of the deck drain into wooden stakes.

Word of caution: No surface deck drain serves as an expansion joint, as concrete decks move. Put a 24" rebar every 36" midway on the drain to prevent damage.

[HighlandScott]

Check your phone book for a local dealer in pipe, septic, sewer, drainage suppliers or ckeck your local precast concrete supplier. In your area think about freezing in the winter. The last thing you need is to have shallow drain fill up and freeze and becoming useless. I live in north west CT. so we have similar weather. The plastic drains tend to be shallow ( 4'' ) while the precast concrete can be about a foot deep but slightly more money and heavy to work with. Let me know how you make out! Scott

[PilotSC]

Seascape,

Here in St. Louis most all of the irrigation dealers also sell drainage products. I would start with them.

Sean

[RRS]

Mike check out this link.

www.pavingexpert.com/drain06.htm

[Seascape]

Ok that link sheds some light. But im still nervous about it.

Heres some of my concerns.

1) Im under the impression that i want to set the channel tight against the concrete floor of the garage. That was kinda confirmed in an illustration on that link. So heres the thing,,, that dont leave much room between the channel and garage for concrete. Wonder how i should go about this so that that side doesnt weaken and my base fails in time? Or,,, am a over concerned? Should i just cut my 5" (or whatever i end up using) out ,, clean and chip out the channel,,, than using a trowl of sort actually clean some base out from under the garage floor and the existing driveway,,, than pour crete ,,, shove the crete back into those chambers i created w/ the trowl,, fill the bottom of the channel w/ crete,,, set the pre fab channel in,,,tamp to proper level,,,, than let it set up?

If i do it like that the channel will fit in the hole i cut really nice leaving no patch work on the surface. But than its only being held in w/ crete on its bottom and about 25% up the sides (maybe more i dont know, more would be nice!),,,, nothing but gravel and dirt on its sides other than that. Thats kinda the impression i got from the middle construction illustration on that link. Thats kinda how i was picturing this project from the get go but that was concerning me. Am i over concerned?

Or should i drop that procedure,, cut my 'slot' 4" wide on each side and set the channel in a complete bed of crete,, bring the crete all the way up the sides 4" thick,, smooth the 4" surface of crete at the surface it creates and let it set?
Than what about the joints between the black top and the crete i poured if i use this method? Freeze thaw ,freeze thaw,freeze thaw and it starts working up? Do i need to seal those joints some how?

Or is my first initial method above suffice as long as i create enough crete bed in the bottom?

Maybe im over concerned about the joints altogether either way i install because theres surely going to be 57s in there that should handle the freezing? If not i can surely install some?

But something tells me cutting 4" wide on each side is a bad idea altogether. I would really like to see this channel set tight against the garage pad floor.

What do you guys think? Any feedback?

[Seascape]

Word of caution: No surface deck drain serves as an expansion joint, as concrete decks move. Put a 24" rebar every 36" midway on the drain to prevent damage.

What do you mean? Pound 1/2" rebar in the bottom of the trench ,,pour crete up to the top of the rebar than set the channel on top of the rebar?

This would require actually setting final grade w/ the rebar correct? Or do you pour crete over the rebar allowing room to still tamp to level?

[Georgia Fan]

Can you post a pic please???

Georgia Fan

[Seascape]

Can you post a pic please???

Georgia Fan

Well im sure tha'd be helpful however i dont have one nor do i know how to post a pic on here.

Its pretty much just your typical set up you see everyday. 2 car garage w/ black top up against the concrete pad inside the garage. I think the concrete goes about 4" in front of the doors when theyre closed.

Im wanting one solid channel,, its 40' across both doors ,,, the outlet drain will run right along the side of the garage and turn into a 4" gutter drain ,,, im gonna tap that in about 20" deep invert.

[SodBuster]

Important: Set the channel drain to grade as I said above. Place 3/8" rebar every 36" midway on the channel. Drill 3/8" holes horizontally through the channel and place the rebar. When you pour the surface the channel will now be attached to both surfaces on each side of the channel. When the surfaces move in the freeze thaw cycle, the channel will not be pinched when absorbing the movement of the surfaces.

You may need to cut the rebar down to workable sizes pieces.