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Help with a Design

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  • Help with a Design

    Ok so this is my first ever sprinkler installation design. I have made a map of my backyard and I think that I have everything ready.
    I am just going to hook a hose up to my faucet (with a vacuum breaker) and have it lead to a pvc pipe which will go underground into a zone box. I tested the faucet and the psi is at 50 and the GPM is 6.8

    Now I have a couple of questions for the community. I am thinking of installing these sprinklers throughout my entire lawn. ( )
    I will be using two nozzles, one for a 10' radius and another for a 15' radius.

    Here are my questions...
    Will the setup that I have so far work? (See picture below)
    How should I split up my zones?
    Should I have my zone box close to the backyard where all my sprinklers are or closer to my faucet which is by my house?
    How many sprinklers should I have per zone?

    Here is my floor plan so far. Red circles indicate possible sprinklers and blue circles indicate the sprinkler radius.


  • #2
    Re: Help with a Design

    First off, I strongly discourage you from running the system off a hose bib unless this is your only option. I understand this is the easiest way to connect to the water supply, but you're also limiting yourself with the low flow rate, and you'll also have the luxury of listening to the sound of water flowing through your house plumbing as the system is running. Instead, consider connecting onto the line before it enters your house, or right after it comes into your house. This may require a plumber if you don't feel capable enough. If you connect on the line before it enters your house, you will need to leave provisions to drain the line if you live in a region which freezes in the winter. You'll be amazed at the difference of available flow if you aren't running water all through the homes plumbing and then out a dinky hose bib. I would not be surprised the least if you could be running 12GPM or so.

    Secondly, that's great your hose bib has a pressure breaker built in, but you still need either a separate pressure vacuum breaker (PVB), double-check (if allowed by code), or reduced pressure principle (RPZ) backflow prevention assembly to follow the law.

    With a static water pressure of 50 psi you are wasting money on buying PRS (pressure reducing) heads. You will see absolutely no benefit.

    When designing, you need to allow for the spray distance only being effective at 80% of rated radius. So a 10' now becomes an 8', and a 15' becomes 12'. This accounts for wind. If you live in an especially windy area (like myself in Poverty, Kansas), it's wise to account for less of a distance, say 70%...60%...whatever you see fit - but never figure above 80%.

    I can't see the layout, doesn't seem like it was posted.
    2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and future 2015 LSF RECEPTED AWARD recipient!

    Hortikulture Kolledge Grad + Licensed Master Irrigator + Certified Backflow Technician +
    Licensed Fert & Squirt Applicator = Jack of all trades, master of none.