I had no one to tell me this so I had to think about it and figure it out for myself. I do not know if it has been touched on in the forum, but I am doing so to try to help others trying to run this as a business. The more people that know how to price things means that everyone’s prices will be more similar (less lowballers) and help the quality of the industry. Feel free go and talk to and share/teach this with your local lowballers too.
There is really no difference between square foot price/linear foot price and per hour price.
Say you have 2 lawns. Both are 1000 square feet.
Lawn 1, is perfect like a golf course and
Lawn 2 is bumpy, rocks and trees, and on a 30 degree slope.
Now, both lawns have an area and both are going to take time to do, unless you are magic. So you can do so much area in so much time.
Lawn 1 will take less time than lawn 2.
Say lawn 1 takes 10 minutes and
Lawn 2 takes 15 minutes.
I use seconds instead of minutes.
Lawn 1: so you take 1000 square feet and divide by 600 seconds (10 min), and you get 1.666 square feet per second. This would be your formula for a perfect lawn.
Lawn 2: take 1000 square feet per second and divide by 900 (15 min), and you get 1.111 square feet per second. This would be your formula for a bad lawn.
Take 1.666 and 1.111, add together and divide by 2 and you get 1.388 square feet per second, the formula for your average lawn.
Now you have a square feet per second formula it takes to do a bad, average, and a perfect lawn. Do the same for trimming and edging and blowing, come up with a low, medium, and a high formula for each. Run formulas for a push mower and your zrt. They will be different. If you use a 48" regular riding mower and then use a 48" ztr mower, your prices will be a bit off.
If you don’t have these times, eye ball the first few accounts and if you get it, measure everything you do and the time it takes to do it. Buy a measuring wheel at home depot for 60 bucks. Take good and bad accounts to get varied times. Time if the grass is wet or dry, if you feel great or bad, whatever. I keep a journal on each account I do and the time it takes to do each part each week, I have them measured also.
Now when you go to do an estimate with these formulas you can look at the yard and walk the yard to see how bumpy it is and measure the slope or pitch. Then measure the size. Say 5000 square feet.
So take 5000 square feet and divide it by 1.666 square feet per second because this lawn is near perfect. You get 3001.2 seconds for mowing the whole area. Now take 3001.2 and divide by 60 minutes and you get 50.02 minutes that it will take to mow. Do the same thing for trimming, edging and blowing and then add them to the mowing time. You now have a total time it will take you to do the lawn. I always add a percent for unforeseen things, like adding gas to trimmers, edgers, blowers, mowers, line for trimmers, and things like that, or just for travel time if nothing goes wrong. Lets say 5% to the total balance.
Now take the total time to do everything, say 75 minutes and times it by your operating cost per minute.
((Say it takes you $2.50 cents per minute to pay yourself, pay office bills, gas, insurance, repair and upgrade mowers, repair and upgrade trucks, repair and upgrade other equipment, and to be able to buy new equipment like skid steers, bobcats, dump trucks, tractor and brush hog, and everything else. I estimate for upgrading trucks, mowers, trimmers, trailers and everything every 3 years. Sell the old or keep it if you want to.
Take the price of all equipment going to be upgraded and new equipment needed and divide by 3. This is how much you need to save per year to upgrade every 3 years; you could do it every 5 if you wanted. You could figure on $100,000 to $250,000 per year or for advertising alone if you wanted too! Easy to spend that on TV and radio, real quick!
Say you wanted to make 20k per year, it took you 20k to operate and advertise, and you needed 60k to upgrade your equipment every 3 years and to buy needed equipment along the way. So add your salary 20k, add operating costs, 20k, and 1/3 of 60k, 20k. You get a total of 60k per year needed to operate, for equipment, and for you to live on.
Divide 60k by number of months mowing. This is price per month
Divide new number by 4 weeks in a month. This is price per week
Divide new number by working days in a week. This is price per day
Divide new number by hours working in a day. This is your price per hour you need to run your business.
Divide once more to get your price per minute you need to run your business!)) So say it is $2.50 per minute.
So you take the 75 minutes it takes you to do the job and times it by the cost you have to make per minute ($2.50) and you come up with $187.50. Plus the 5% mentioned above for unforeseen things, and you come up with $196.88 you will need to do this lawn.
If you low ball you will not be able to buy that shiny new skid steer or bobcat, this is why it is important to not low-ball.
Everyone has an operating cost; most scrubs have not bothered to take the time to figure office, insurance, repairs and acquiring new equipment out. This is why $20 for a lawn might seem like a lot to them, until they realize that $18 is going back into operating costs and only $2 was profit! If people lowball, they will not have nice, running equipment and will not be able to provide new services to their clients. If a lowball scrub drops a crankshaft on their craftsman residential riding mower, how are they going to mow lawns when 100% of their income has been allocated towards porn and a 12 pack of "The Beast". You cant run a business and think you can keep 100% of the income, more like 10%, 20% at best.
A business is a money-eating monster. You keep too much of the income you kill the monster by starvation, no more business! You barely feed the monster and it gives you some crumbs. The less you take and the more you feed it (upgrades, advertising), the more crumbs it feeds you!!!
So you want to make more than $2 per lawn after operating and upgrading costs? Raise your lowball prices! This is why I cannot do a lawn for less than a certain price. I have a certain price to just break even, let alone upgrade and get new needed equipment, and those several acres for greenhouses I want. The more you lowball, the less you can do with your money. Get it too low and you cant even operate. There is a base minimum to just break even, no profit. There are always hidden costs in operating a business.
You could run around offering to mow people’s yards and you pay them $50 a yard to mow it. You would have every lawn in town, but what would you make? You would hemorrhage money.
I would rather maintain 1 yard for $100 dollars, while lowballers mow 10 yards for $10 dollars each. This isn’t a race to see who can mow the most yards; it is a race to see who can make money and stay in business.
Now if we are making the same money, do you really think we are making the same money?
I am mowing 1/10th as much so I will have:
1/10th wear and tear, repairs, tires, belts, air filters, blades, oil, gas on my mowers.
1/10th the wear and tear, repairs, tires, oil, gas, everything else, on my truck.
1/10th the wear and tear, repairs, oil, gas, blades and line for trimmers, edgers and blowers.
I will make a boat load more money because I will save lots of money on the decreased use of my truck, mowers, trimmers, edgers, and blowers.
I will also be mowing 1/10th less so I will be 9/10th less tired and have 9/10th more time to get more $100 jobs or go and have fun if I do not get the right paying accounts.
I could mow 25-$100 dollar jobs in a week, lets see a lowballer mow the 250-$10 dollar accounts to make the same $2500 per week, but they would have to mow more than that to make up for the increased use of their equipment, just to net the same as me.
I hope I have put some things in perspective and I hope this way to formulate price per yard and operating costs will help someone who is trying to run this as a business and not just a way to make a few extra dollars for beer.
And no, the above times and prices are not mine, this is just a basis on how to calculate things. Everyone will have their own operating costs and times it takes them to do it.
There is really no difference between square foot price/linear foot price and per hour price.
Say you have 2 lawns. Both are 1000 square feet.
Lawn 1, is perfect like a golf course and
Lawn 2 is bumpy, rocks and trees, and on a 30 degree slope.
Now, both lawns have an area and both are going to take time to do, unless you are magic. So you can do so much area in so much time.
Lawn 1 will take less time than lawn 2.
Say lawn 1 takes 10 minutes and
Lawn 2 takes 15 minutes.
I use seconds instead of minutes.
Lawn 1: so you take 1000 square feet and divide by 600 seconds (10 min), and you get 1.666 square feet per second. This would be your formula for a perfect lawn.
Lawn 2: take 1000 square feet per second and divide by 900 (15 min), and you get 1.111 square feet per second. This would be your formula for a bad lawn.
Take 1.666 and 1.111, add together and divide by 2 and you get 1.388 square feet per second, the formula for your average lawn.
Now you have a square feet per second formula it takes to do a bad, average, and a perfect lawn. Do the same for trimming and edging and blowing, come up with a low, medium, and a high formula for each. Run formulas for a push mower and your zrt. They will be different. If you use a 48" regular riding mower and then use a 48" ztr mower, your prices will be a bit off.
If you don’t have these times, eye ball the first few accounts and if you get it, measure everything you do and the time it takes to do it. Buy a measuring wheel at home depot for 60 bucks. Take good and bad accounts to get varied times. Time if the grass is wet or dry, if you feel great or bad, whatever. I keep a journal on each account I do and the time it takes to do each part each week, I have them measured also.
Now when you go to do an estimate with these formulas you can look at the yard and walk the yard to see how bumpy it is and measure the slope or pitch. Then measure the size. Say 5000 square feet.
So take 5000 square feet and divide it by 1.666 square feet per second because this lawn is near perfect. You get 3001.2 seconds for mowing the whole area. Now take 3001.2 and divide by 60 minutes and you get 50.02 minutes that it will take to mow. Do the same thing for trimming, edging and blowing and then add them to the mowing time. You now have a total time it will take you to do the lawn. I always add a percent for unforeseen things, like adding gas to trimmers, edgers, blowers, mowers, line for trimmers, and things like that, or just for travel time if nothing goes wrong. Lets say 5% to the total balance.
Now take the total time to do everything, say 75 minutes and times it by your operating cost per minute.
((Say it takes you $2.50 cents per minute to pay yourself, pay office bills, gas, insurance, repair and upgrade mowers, repair and upgrade trucks, repair and upgrade other equipment, and to be able to buy new equipment like skid steers, bobcats, dump trucks, tractor and brush hog, and everything else. I estimate for upgrading trucks, mowers, trimmers, trailers and everything every 3 years. Sell the old or keep it if you want to.
Take the price of all equipment going to be upgraded and new equipment needed and divide by 3. This is how much you need to save per year to upgrade every 3 years; you could do it every 5 if you wanted. You could figure on $100,000 to $250,000 per year or for advertising alone if you wanted too! Easy to spend that on TV and radio, real quick!
Say you wanted to make 20k per year, it took you 20k to operate and advertise, and you needed 60k to upgrade your equipment every 3 years and to buy needed equipment along the way. So add your salary 20k, add operating costs, 20k, and 1/3 of 60k, 20k. You get a total of 60k per year needed to operate, for equipment, and for you to live on.
Divide 60k by number of months mowing. This is price per month
Divide new number by 4 weeks in a month. This is price per week
Divide new number by working days in a week. This is price per day
Divide new number by hours working in a day. This is your price per hour you need to run your business.
Divide once more to get your price per minute you need to run your business!)) So say it is $2.50 per minute.
So you take the 75 minutes it takes you to do the job and times it by the cost you have to make per minute ($2.50) and you come up with $187.50. Plus the 5% mentioned above for unforeseen things, and you come up with $196.88 you will need to do this lawn.
If you low ball you will not be able to buy that shiny new skid steer or bobcat, this is why it is important to not low-ball.
Everyone has an operating cost; most scrubs have not bothered to take the time to figure office, insurance, repairs and acquiring new equipment out. This is why $20 for a lawn might seem like a lot to them, until they realize that $18 is going back into operating costs and only $2 was profit! If people lowball, they will not have nice, running equipment and will not be able to provide new services to their clients. If a lowball scrub drops a crankshaft on their craftsman residential riding mower, how are they going to mow lawns when 100% of their income has been allocated towards porn and a 12 pack of "The Beast". You cant run a business and think you can keep 100% of the income, more like 10%, 20% at best.
A business is a money-eating monster. You keep too much of the income you kill the monster by starvation, no more business! You barely feed the monster and it gives you some crumbs. The less you take and the more you feed it (upgrades, advertising), the more crumbs it feeds you!!!
So you want to make more than $2 per lawn after operating and upgrading costs? Raise your lowball prices! This is why I cannot do a lawn for less than a certain price. I have a certain price to just break even, let alone upgrade and get new needed equipment, and those several acres for greenhouses I want. The more you lowball, the less you can do with your money. Get it too low and you cant even operate. There is a base minimum to just break even, no profit. There are always hidden costs in operating a business.
You could run around offering to mow people’s yards and you pay them $50 a yard to mow it. You would have every lawn in town, but what would you make? You would hemorrhage money.
I would rather maintain 1 yard for $100 dollars, while lowballers mow 10 yards for $10 dollars each. This isn’t a race to see who can mow the most yards; it is a race to see who can make money and stay in business.
Now if we are making the same money, do you really think we are making the same money?
I am mowing 1/10th as much so I will have:
1/10th wear and tear, repairs, tires, belts, air filters, blades, oil, gas on my mowers.
1/10th the wear and tear, repairs, tires, oil, gas, everything else, on my truck.
1/10th the wear and tear, repairs, oil, gas, blades and line for trimmers, edgers and blowers.
I will make a boat load more money because I will save lots of money on the decreased use of my truck, mowers, trimmers, edgers, and blowers.
I will also be mowing 1/10th less so I will be 9/10th less tired and have 9/10th more time to get more $100 jobs or go and have fun if I do not get the right paying accounts.
I could mow 25-$100 dollar jobs in a week, lets see a lowballer mow the 250-$10 dollar accounts to make the same $2500 per week, but they would have to mow more than that to make up for the increased use of their equipment, just to net the same as me.
I hope I have put some things in perspective and I hope this way to formulate price per yard and operating costs will help someone who is trying to run this as a business and not just a way to make a few extra dollars for beer.
And no, the above times and prices are not mine, this is just a basis on how to calculate things. Everyone will have their own operating costs and times it takes them to do it.



- ahum : Kawi piston at full speed just before crank wipes out and rod shoots threw block
.

Comment