What are the best snow throwers? Reply!

[Scaper-S2k]

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The single stage Toro's amaze me almost everytime it snows. You won't find a faster better clearing snow blower. Skip the ones that you have to crank for the chute to move. That takes too long, buy the one that you simply flip with your hand. A normal 10'x35'-40' will take you under 5 minutes, sidewalks and all. That's up to about 6" or 7" of snow.

[Zack.]

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I prefer the units with the chute crank (3650) !

The 2450 has no chute crank & if you have to turn the chute alot it can be a strain on the back. Also much easier to pinpoint the snow direction & alter throwing direction while moving. The chute crank can be stiff at first on the 3650 but it will soon loosen up!

[Bobby D]

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There is no blower that can beat the performance of the Toro 3650. No way, the rubber augers clean right to the pavement so no going behind wiht a shovel to re clean. Light enough so one man can take on and off the truck. I don't know why you would need anything else for driveways or walkways. I do driveways that are over 200 ft. long with 8 inches of snow on it in about 30 minutes. I also have used it in heavy snow measuring up to a foot. Anything over that might be difficult and require a two stage big thrower. But, in this neck of the woods, we rarely get snow over a foot. So the one time it happens, you grab some shovels and save a $1000.

[Sammy]

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I like my Honda. [8D]

[Scaper-S2k]

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Zack, I'm suprised you like the ones that you have to crank like that. Have you used the manually operated ones? Very fast to just flip around and they have nothces about every 1/4" so you can still direct the snow where you want it. I looked a the crankers this year again, but still decided against them.

[Zack.]

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Scrub Alert!

The chute crank alows the operator to subtly change the direction of the thrown snow while moving up the drive or walk. This feature in indispensible in keeping thrown snow off houses, cars, garages, neighbors drives etc.. Also the fact that the operator remains in an upright position to turn the crank relieves fatigue over the long haul.

[Scaper-S2k]

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I know for a fact that the cranking chute slows you down. That's common sense. Maybe you just never got the hang of it. You have to crank that thing like 8 times to turn it around. With the others, you simply put your hand forward and push it quickly to the other side. Takes about 2 seconds. You can direct it where ever you want and put it at any angle you want.

I'm fairly sure they made those hand crankers on that model for the elderly ladies. Hey, I guess you got yours with the extension cord plug in electric start too?

Now on two dual stage snow blowers? That's a different story, they are set up different.

Zack, I'm glad I made you see the proper way.[]

[grasshopper]

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Toro single stage snow blowers are the absolute best for doing walkways and driveways. Mine has a 6.5 hp engine and can throw snow up to 35 feet. Unless you live where heavy snowfall is normal,, don't waste your time or money on a two stage blower. The main disadvantages of two stage blowers is that 1. they don't get all the way down to the pavement, so you need to go back over it with a shovel, and 2. they can easily get clogged up. It's basically impossible to clog up a single stage blower, and if you do, it's very simple to take care of the problem.

[qualitylandscaping]

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Grasshopper,

I do agree with you about single stage snowblowers.. My dad bought an Ariens 2-stage blower in 1994, and it does a terrible job at getting all of the snow.

But,

In Western NY, and most of the Northeast and New England, you'll never make it with only a single stage blower. We already have over 100" of snow this winter, and when we get 16" of lake effect snow in 10-12 hours, a single-stage ain't gonna cut it. Although, I would never get rid of my 3650, I think it is still a smart idea to use a plow or 2-stage blower in my region...

All of you down south, can get away with only having a single stage, but I recommend if you live north of PA, get a 2-stage or a plow..

[Zack.]

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I have found the Toro single stage Commander 7hp/24 can handle anytrhing my 10/28 2 stages can & clear it better. The 2 stages are slower, cause more strain, and do not clear as well. We do use 10/28's on some longer drives when the snow is heavy & a Toro 13/32 PS on city plow banks.

The chute crank on the 3650 is a necessary feature if you are doing multiple accounts with blowers. You can pinpoint the snows direction while moving & if you are using proper snowblowing technique altering the chutes direction from left to right or vice versa should, in most cases be unecessary. One pass down the centre & then then counter-clockwise up & down the drive with minor adjustments with the chute crank is the proper & least straining method to clear. The units I purchased without the crank now have homemade cranks added which are basically extensions of the handle with a flexible elbow. I am currently working on a crank for the Toro Commander.

[Scaper-S2k]

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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Zack.</i>
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if you are using proper snowblowing technique altering the chutes direction from left to right or vice versa should, in most cases be unecessary.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Exactly why the cranking chutes are not needed. See, I must use the "proper snowblowing technique".

Zack, I really am glad we both agreed that crankers are not needed if the user has the "proper technique".[]

[Zack.]

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Exactly why the cranking chutes are needed!

If using proper snow blowing technique then subtle adjustments to the chute is needed while moving up the drive to ensure snow is not thrown on garage, neighbors drive, sides of houses, cleared sidewalks, walkways, steps or landings, cars etc., as the operator works toward the outer areas of the drive.

Obviously Mr. Skaper enjoys watching his employees bend over as they use unproductive methods on scrub approved units.

[qualitylandscaping]

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I hate to say this, but I do agree with Zack..

The crank unit is very simple.. Turn the chute one direction, and walk a straight path down the middle of the driveway. Then go in circles around the driveway, and moving the chute is never needed.

I think there are advantages to both types, but I don't see any point in arguing over a crank on a snowblower, lol![:p]

[Scaper-S2k]

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Steve, they both have the same exact chute, but I don't have to sit and crank it to turn it. You simply fling it around in about 2 seconds to what ever angle you want. Same outcome, but much faster.



Zack, you must have forgot your quote? You said it loud and clear. Proper techniques mean you don't need to move the chute often. Or maybe you just like excersizing your wrist?


<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Scaper-S2k</i>
<br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Zack.</i>
<br />
if you are using proper snowblowing technique altering the chutes direction from left to right or vice versa should, in most cases be unecessary.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Exactly why the cranking chutes are not needed. See, I must use the "proper snowblowing technique".

Zack, I really am glad we both agreed that crankers are not needed if the user has the "proper technique".[]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

[Zack.]

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No sir you do not undestand the finer points of snowblowing!

The operator moves the crank while walking...just slightly as he works his way down the drive, to avoid shooting snow on the objects I described above. You cannot do this with the crankless units & it makes the whole procedure much more labor intensive!