heater core leak

[coastallawncare]

have a heater core leaking in 96 s-10 4x4
450-500 for repair has anyone ever used alumaseal in the small tube? if so did it work and did you have any problems?

[1Chavez]

I have no clue what alumaseal is but I would recomend going to the local autoparts store, buying a Haynes manual for your car and changing the core yourself.
-Rich

[Rustic Goat]

Alumaseal is a water stop leak product. Size of tube is designed to be added to water in a metal automotive radiator.
It will most likely work if all components are metal, for how long ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Possible Problems,
-if plastic side or top/bottom caps are used on heater core, it's not going to seal long if at all
-If you're familiar with the looks of the inside core assembly on heaters and radiators, you know all the slots that water normally passes through for air cooling? Alumaseal can clog any small passageway up.
-The tubing going from radiator to overflow tank can easily get clogged up with Alumaseal. Alumaseal actually thinks it has found a leak and will seal the tube. When that happens, pressure can't be released, radiator swells up and will blow at the weakest point in seam. Yes, I've seen it happen.

Replacement heater core doesn't cost that much does it? Labor is where they're getting you.
Either shop around for other repair shops, or as suggested, do it your self if you have any mechanical ability at all.
Haynes or Chilton make good repair guides with decent details for this repair.

BTW- Why is this in Commercial Lawn Service Forum?

[leadarrows]

I just put a heater core in my 1977 C 65 chevy dump truck. Cost=$35.00. do it your self that price is outrageous.

[Rustic Goat]

Originally posted by leadarrows
I just put a heater core in my 1977 C 65 chevy dump truck. Cost=$35.00. do it your self that price is outrageous.

coastal, I found a heater core online just poking around, less than $40 part cost for your vehicle.

lead, there's a mechanical world of difference under the hood between your '77 and coastal's '96. Definitely more labor involved, but no where near $400.
Heck, for that, get it down here, I'll do it for that!

coastal, are you sure you were quoted for a heater core, could it have been a radiator quote?

Save money, learn mechanics.

[Rustic Goat]

Barsleak and Alumaseal for all intents and purposes are the same type product, no not exactly but mostly, a leak will never know the difference.

Just read a post on a repair forum. Guy had a '96 s-10 with same problem, used Barsleak, dumped complete package in. Stopped up his heater core, now with NO circulation, can't get heat in vehicle.
But, he doesn't have any leaks!

[TRANSMAN]

BARS LEAK? ALL DEPENDS

on the vehicle and what you want to sink in it. I definately was going to pass on this question because to bring up sealants i fiqured i would be immediatly BLASTED. But being WEEDER brought it up i`ll agree i have used this for people who were broke or on cars that were just junk to begin with. Barsleak was somthing of a miricle cure for these poor single moms who were broke and i never saw it plug anything up except leaks that were small and leaked out into the surrounding air.If the vehicle is somthing you plan on keeping for some time it should be replaced the correct way with a new core. Rustic nailed the comparison between the 70`s and 90`s vehicle though there is no comparison working on these different year vehicles. When i used the bars leak on somthing it is important however to shake it up,make sure all the pellets and fluid is poured in ,and the said vehicle should be run a hour with the cap on allowing the pressure to fully build ,heater open and blowing and say a prayer.I think people who use this stuff that have had problems dont allow enough time for it to completely circulate under pressure and thats why it clumps up in one spot. Tried ceramic seal and all the higher tech additives with bad results and always went back to the old BARS LEAK. I know of a few old junkers that are still sealed because of rear freeze plugs that were rusted behind the motor between the tranny and the bars leak installed years ago is still holding them together. If i get BLASTED ITS WEEDERS FAULT! SINCERELY,KD

[TRANSMAN]

JUST KIDDIN

I dont believe everything i read in magazines as fact.But i did read somewhere that some auto manufacturers put this stuff in right from the factory just as insurance.Dont know how true that read was. BUT a SERVICE MANAGER and mechanic at a Cadillac dealership both told me they used it in all those alluminum block with seperate iron sleeved engines.I think it was the 4.1 liter cadi`s and they were haveing a lot of warentee problems with the cylinder heads leaking with those seperate iron sleeves and BARS LEAK saved there azzes. Those two guys went into bussiness across the street from me and stocked it by the cases because they continued this practice in there own shop whenever they pulled heads or anything connected with the water jackets. They swore by it and would NOT let anything leave there shop without it if they opened the engine. But that was them and if anyone wants to take there beliefs and use it i`ll throw that fact out there.SINCERELY,KD

[zz218]

Just bypass heater core. Probably only need 1 ft heater hose and two hose clamps and maybe 15 minutes. Yeah heater won't work but better than running a motor out of water and having to replace it. Don't really need heater anyway being in jax. i live in brunswick and have had trucks w/out heater cores maybe a little chilly but you will be out of the wind so won't feel all that cold.