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  • Football field re-do

    What does this mean in laymans terms and what would be a round-a-bout price for such a job? I have never done this, but have an opportunity to add this to our list of services since we already have a great relationship with the school's admin for what we've already done for them:

    "Bidder shall grade/re-float the football field (approximately 2.60 acres, including sidelines and north/south end zones) to establish a 3/4 degree crown as measured from the field center. The field dimensions are 210' wide by 532' long. The crown shall extend from the center of the field out approximately 90' on either side. Successful Bidder shall provide adequate mix of fertilizers to establish a field Ph level of 6.5-7.0."
    - Your home for Gator Tailgating and Gator Sports News and Forums.

  • #2
    Thats a big job man, to re do a football field. I assume that means strip out the existing turf and regrade and seed/sod. Your question is pretty self explanatory. Crown it 3/4 of a degree on each side of your center point..

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    • #3
      To regrade something that size a big ol' grader JD 772 or Cat 140 to establish the correct slope.

      You would also need tools to caluclate and measure slope and elevation. Is there irrigation in place? I am guessing the soil will need some sort of amendments along with fertilizer to get PH into the correct range.

      Once the grade work is done, soil is at the correct condition then new sod or seed.

      With the right equipment it would not be hard. Without the right equipment it would be miserable.
      Noli nothis permittere te terere

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      • #4
        Originally posted by LindblomRJ View Post
        To regrade something that size a big ol' grader JD 772 or Cat 140 to establish the correct slope.

        You would also need tools to caluclate and measure slope and elevation. Is there irrigation in place? I am guessing the soil will need some sort of amendments along with fertilizer to get PH into the correct range.

        Once the grade work is done, soil is at the correct condition then new sod or seed.

        With the right equipment it would not be hard. Without the right equipment it would be miserable.
        With the right equipment it is still a big job. Someone better know what they are doing and know how to run equipment well.

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        • #5
          I'm sure the basic shape is still there. It's not like he's taking out trees and starting from scratch.

          Since it's a public school, you could find out what they paid the last time it was done courtesy of the Freedom of Information Act.


          and this would be the easiest way to do it.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by btammo View Post
            With the right equipment it is still a big job. Someone better know what they are doing and know how to run equipment well.
            Exactly. You could try it with Kubota and a box blade or a skid loader. That to me would be more time consuming.

            You are 100% correct about knowing how to use the equipment. I figure for regrading with a slope and size a grader with a 12 or 14 foot blade would be easier to maintain grade, move materials and end up with a better finished product.

            I am thinking it would be a lot like golf course construction.
            Originally posted by Scott View Post
            I'm sure the basic shape is still there. It's not like he's taking out trees and starting from scratch.
            If that was the case it would be scrapers and dozers.
            Noli nothis permittere te terere

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            • #7
              Originally posted by LindblomRJ View Post
              Exactly. You could try it with Kubota and a box blade or a skid loader. That to me would be more time consuming.

              You are 100% correct about knowing how to use the equipment. I figure for regrading with a slope and size a grader with a 12 or 14 foot blade would be easier to maintain grade, move materials and end up with a better finished product.

              I am thinking it would be a lot like golf course construction.


              If that was the case it would be scrapers and dozers.
              I agree with you, but a run of the mill landscaper may not best suited for this job. I have done some turf jobs and they take time. We did a warning track last year for a local college, pita. From stripping out all of the sod to the finished project. I guess there are too many questions that arent being answered by the thread starter. Once he gets back with the specifics it might be a different story....May end up being easier than I am thinking depending on the work involved....

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              • #8
                Some tips for you-

                Even though I'm skeptical, I offer you a few things. These might trigger some doubt, and certainly ought to prompt you to ask a few questions.

                Run the system, flag heads. Remove heads and cap with threaded. Drop a piece of 1/2" rebar into every head hole from where you removed a head, (flat, not upright). This will help you locate (metal detector) the drops, if its a cheap renovation that won't involve cutting grade, only filling grade, Get an aerial image as close as you can, diagram right angle vectors from some fixed objects such as light poles, the grandstands and other markers you place yourself.

                Remove sod with a sod cutter. It can be relayed elsewhere, or disposed of, but it won't be going back down in place....

                Get a geotech engineering firm to core a grid, long before you start work and determine what is in the layers of soils strata. From the analysis, you will have a prescription for re-grading. I sense a need for better drainage in the specs, not necessarily the types of turf being faulty being the reason for the renovation, which means you need to bring in materials. As well, it just may be that after engineering analysis, it might be benficial to have KILLED the turf, because there is an intention to bring in a completely different turf type. Further, You may need to scarify and ammend the existing soils to get it to "play ball". If you scarify, you need to be well covered in your contract for SIGNIFICANT irrigation efforts at T+M, plus having quite a few days in the schedule to run the systems to ensure you have it water tight again. (This is a serious gamble for all.) IF you are bringing in significant fill you may only need to kill and till, and not remove the sod. Too many deatails not relayed here yet.

                Being from Florida, I have high confidence the remidies here are going to involve bringing in a "ton" of fill, to make drainage happen. From the sounds of it, drainage is the problem, and fill is the remedy. There is obviously more to the bid specs than this, such as "where will the water running off be going?" IS there no grading plans? Topographical survey of the nearest/surrounding ten acres is required. If there isn't, the whole deal is sketchy.....

                Your best bet would be to sub it to a Paving company. There is only so much road work going on right now, so finding a sub won't be too hard. You might be of assistance in removing the materials and leading up to efforts, but when it comes to re-grading, a 75hp class tractor with a GPS and laser grading equipment is more than enough. A classic Road Grader of the large type would be invasive, they do make Graders of small size, but speed is not an issue, and you may as well not try and dicate means and methods to your sub.

                Since I seriously doubt it would be seeded, its unlikely you will want to lay the new turf if it is sodded. Be sure to have a ride on roller do its work on the new stuff.

                I was part of a renovation at a private school. A benefactor donated 500 loads of good fill, to raise the level of an existing field almost THREE feet, for drainage issues. The school paid to irrigate and sod was layed by the grower, which was also from the school budget- not cheap. I gave away a lot of my time and paid my crews to work out of my own pocket- I got a wee reduction in my tuition bill.

                IF there is a hint of cheapskate, corner cutting, or less than optimal practices being suggested, walk away. There is far too much at stake.

                Ask more questions. Send more details this way. Again, my skepticism involves who engineered this project, and where is the investigation and analysis that supports the design and subsequent construction? There are too many instances of the design is not supported by geotechincal analysis, and only brainstormed by an AD, a school admin, a janitor, the booster club president, and finally some facility engineer (a handyman that changes light bulbs and locks, and makes sure the gym is swept) at the district level.

                Feel free to contact me to discuss more details. I happen to be in the process of engineering a new building on (the same) campus 50x120x 2 stories, and the associated drainage needs (requirements) are allowing us to build a new practice field (that we desperatly need) which will be normal width plus generous aprons, but only finishing 80 yards long unless I re-align a roadway, which isn't budgetable for for square acreage or square dollars. This new practice field will take the strain off of the new three year old field. My Sophmore Son goes there, but before this new capital improvement is done, I won't have to write a tuition check for him or my 7th grade daughter, for the rest of their careers there, to give you an idea of the costs. The vertical construction will cost just slightly less than the geotecnical work to create the new practice areas and code required swales and open/closed drainage systems to bring it all together. See? 12,000 square feet of building being only slight more than earth work? Yep.

                Then again, I could be all wrong.
                GEEVEE®, Pat.Pend. TM, UL

                If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

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                • #9
                  A must have for any landscapers tool box....

                  Know how to run a transit?



                  You're gonna need one to insure you've met the specifications. Just eye-ballin' it ain't gonna work. Easily rentable if you don't want to buy one. Laser self-leveling would be easiest for one-man operation, and very accurate too.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 2010BC View Post
                    Know how to run a transit?



                    You're gonna need one to insure you've met the specifications. Just eye-ballin' it ain't gonna work. Easily rentable if you don't want to buy one. Laser self-leveling would be easiest for one-man operation, and very accurate too.

                    True. A tool you must have.

                    But this job is not as cut and dry as it appears, and the rest of the equipment is paramount. If he had a tractor and was experienced at cut an fill he'd already own one.
                    GEEVEE®, Pat.Pend. TM, UL

                    If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

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                    • #11


                      Of something like with the receivers mounted on the grader.
                      Noli nothis permittere te terere

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by LindblomRJ View Post


                        Of something like with the receivers mounted on the grader.
                        H.S. football field? While nice, mildly overkill.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 2010BC View Post
                          H.S. football field? While nice, mildly overkill.
                          Yeah. Fancier that what I have used. But I was in a hurry to find a picture.





                          Used something like this when I was working for a company excavating basements and doing dirt work in a housing development.

                          Was kinda handy. Had a receiver that would mount on the Backhoe. Or with the rod, it would be a one man job measuring slope. Also used the good old fashioned transit too. Used that mostly for street, and rough grade for roads and curb & gutters.
                          Noli nothis permittere te terere

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                          • #14
                            no reply from the originator....oh well. Cant help without answers to questions....

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