?? on First cut of the year?

[Bulldog26]

I wanted to get the forums feed back on this. When cutting fes. what hight would you set your deck for the first cut of the year. Why? Second, would you bag? why? For an additional fee of course.
I think this would be good information for the newbies or second year guys.
bt

[highlander316]

Normally I treat the first cut the same as the rest. However, some people scalp the lawns, to get rid of dead growth and promote new, however I have never done that.

[pow]

3" for fescue.

[Bulldog26]

Wow, Paul you really cut that short in late season? I ran 2.5 today on a leaf clean up and I felt like I was scalping it. Really suprised I haven't gotten more feed back on this question. I guess it would just be us northerners. Most of the fert. guys in this area rec. a cut between 3-3.5 all year. I have a handfull of lawns I couldn't even think of cut under 3" may to Aug.
Thanks for the feedback.
bt

[dwyman]

I'm in the same boat. I cut 3-3.5 also all year round. I read something through our extension office that it doesn't make a difference to change heights throughout the year, you can keep it the same. They also did a study that showed the higher you kept the grass, the less weeds developed.

Non-irrigated or thinner lawns stay at 3 all year. Lush lawns get cut at 3.5. When I tried to cut these at 3, it felt like it was scalping the lawn and the grass was so dense towards the ground that I would have to blow the lawn. There was nowhere for the blades to fall into. Sorry for rambling on.

I only bag on clean ups. During the year I discharge, it releases up to 1 pound of nitrogen back to the soil. (good selling point if they want it bagged)

[Bulldog26]

I'm in the same boat. I cut 3-3.5 also all year round. I read something through our extension office that it doesn't make a difference to change heights throughout the year, you can keep it the same. They also did a study that showed the higher you kept the grass, the less weeds developed.

Non-irrigated or thinner lawns stay at 3 all year. Lush lawns get cut at 3.5. When I tried to cut these at 3, it felt like it was scalping the lawn and the grass was so dense towards the ground that I would have to blow the lawn. There was nowhere for the blades to fall into. Sorry for rambling on.

I only bag on clean ups. During the year I discharge, it releases up to 1 pound of nitrogen back to the soil. (good selling point if they want it bagged)

I'm with you, I have about 6 lawns that are watered and fert. heavely year round. If I try to cut lower than 3.5 I"m mowing a second time. One lawn is like this and I cut it ever 3-4 days. It's a great lawn, I"m putting that one on the website this year.
dwyman, you don't try to sell any bagging? I just got a new machine this year with a collection system (great how much time you can save on clean ups) and I was planning to try to sell bagging once a month. Good/bad, anyone? Extra $20.00-$30.00 a cut.
Thanks
bt

[RatherbeBassin']

dwyman, you don't try to sell any bagging? I just got a new machine this year with a collection system (great how much time you can save on clean ups) and I was planning to try to sell bagging once a month. Good/bad, anyone? Extra $20.00-$30.00 a cut.
Thanks
bt

I get 1/3 of original mow/blow/go price in addition to mow fee for bagging. i.e. $30 lawn, $40 if you want it bagged AND I can leave bagged clippings @ your curb. If I haul it off add $20!

What they do not know is clippings go to a compost pile. Last years pile was 40' in diameter and approaching 4' tall by the time I went to Texas last year. I already have this pile down to 10' diameter and 2' height and have only been back approx. a month. I am charging my neighbors a minimal fee for the compost. Next door neighbor built a small vegetable garden w/landscaping timbers and filled it w/compost for free in exchange for his wifes blackberry delight (They have all kinds of berries already) and his homemade ice cream on Saturday evenings. (Which we have been mooching off them since we moved here! Time I paid it back anyways.)

[Bulldog26]

I get 1/3 of original mow/blow/go price in addition to mow fee for bagging. i.e. $30 lawn, $40 if you want it bagged AND I can leave bagged clippings @ your curb. If I haul it off add $20!

What they do not know is clippings go to a compost pile. Last years pile was 40' in diameter and approaching 4' tall by the time I went to Texas last year. I already have this pile down to 10' diameter and 2' height and have only been back approx. a month. I am charging my neighbors a minimal fee for the compost. Next door neighbor built a small vegetable garden w/landscaping timbers and filled it w/compost for free in exchange for his wifes blackberry delight (They have all kinds of berries already) and his homemade ice cream on Saturday evenings. (Which we have been mooching off them since we moved here! Time I paid it back anyways.)

RatherbeBassin'
How often do you bag? For those who want it weekly or do you try to go on a rotation? Glad your back, vacation or what?
bt

[RatherbeBassin']

Thanks for the welcome back. Had to go to Texas to care for/get my Dad. His kidney (lost other 1 to cancer 21 years ago) failed and he started dialysis. I moved him up here to Missouri w/me. Glad we did not have kids! This guy is worse than 2 year old twins !

Most who want it bagged want it every time. It makes it easier for me to know they want it bagged and I then know what to expect. Not this "...oh btw, could you bag today?" crap.

Others are usually spring/fall clean-ups or the once monthly bagging. Once monthly is a nice compromise. You can set a day for the bagging route only and know going in to the deay it will be long and tedious.

I hate bagging and charge accordingly!

[Bulldog26]

Sorry to hear he is having so many problems. Good luck with that. I know how it goes. Lost my father n law a few years back to cancer and we had to do 24 hr. a day care for about two weeks. It was tough.
I'm all for bagging as long as I get the price I want to do it. Every contract went out this year with weekly rate and the up charge for bagging. And I recommended it ever 4 to 6 weeks. Will see. What type of collection system do you run. I have a GH steel hopper and the quick dump. Not my first choice but I bought the unit used. My question is how should I effectivly dump this unit and get the clippings in the bed of the truck. I was planning to dump on a tarp on the street then lift it in. But, if I'm working alone this could be a problem..... any advice?
Thanks, glad your back, have missed your input.
bt

[dwyman]

dwyman, you don't try to sell any bagging? I just got a new machine this year with a collection system (great how much time you can save on clean ups) and I was planning to try to sell bagging once a month. Good/bad, anyone? Extra $20.00-$30.00 a cut.
Thanks
bt

I don't bag at all. I'm already considered expensive and for the additional charge for bagging I'd probably be out of the ballpark. Plus I'd have to let that grass sit and ferment until I got a full load to take to the dump. If you've ever smelled fermenting grass, you know what a wonderful treat it is.

[Bulldog26]

I'm pretty lucky thier. I'm doing work for a large developer and he has plenty of land I can dump on any time of day. Not a good smell.
bt

[RatherbeBassin']

I run a Snapper Hi-Vac rear engine mower with 28' deck and 13 h.p. Briggs I/C quiet rider. I use a Gator for leaf removal and a Snapper w/high vac blade lifts (lil' wings that create an unbelievable suction) and a baggin'wagon. Not the most efficient method but it really removes everything. I need to get a collection system for my Ferris.

As far as getting it in the truck bed... that's the 1st problem. I found it more efficient (esp. w/your system) to dump on an caged trailer. I borrow a trailer w/4' high cage around it for large leaf removal. VERY fast! Just back and dump. W/ my Snapper I use the small drawer type bagger for occasional bagging and just dump it in truck bed. Takes more muscle but still pretty efficient for light bagging.