Lapse between aerating and overseeding

[vdeegan]

I've been thinking that to get my money's worth for renting an aerator, I would need to do as many customers in one day as I could. As a one man. op., that would leave no time for doing any of the overseeding. So, I would need to do the overseeding the next day or 2. Would that lapse typically cause a lot of the aeration to be lost assuming foot traffic is minimal?

If so, would it be wiser to rent a slit seeder instead of an aerator, with the hopes of getting aerating and seeding done in the same process?

Don't know much about either method. Thanks.
Vince

[br549oicu8]

If you can seed after aeration and before a rain, especially within a day or two you should be fine. Slit seeding and aeration are two totally different processes and really don't lap. We aerate those that have compacted ground with minimal damaged areas or dead spots. The spots we really work in. If the lawn is a total mess aeration is not enough. Either slit seeding or verticut and seeding is the way to go. Slit seeders are expensive but precision in seed to earth contact. Most are heavy so be prepared for that. I own a Classen Drill seeder and it a very nice machine, but heavy. I have 2 Classen verticut machines and really like them as well. Mush less expensive to buy and can get good results. We verticut 3 times in a total renovation. I prefer to mow and bag low first, verticut, rake the clippings and save, seed, verticut again, seed again and the verticut at a 45 degree angle from the first. After that I spread the clippings over the area as mulch. It works well and gets good results. Slit seeding saves a couple of steps but it is a $$ decision one needs to make.
Good luck!!!!
Buddy

[vdeegan]

If you can seed after aeration and before a rain, especially within a day or two you should be fine. Slit seeding and aeration are two totally different processes and really don't lap. We aerate those that have compacted ground with minimal damaged areas or dead spots. The spots we really work in. If the lawn is a total mess aeration is not enough. Either slit seeding or verticut and seeding is the way to go. Slit seeders are expensive but precision in seed to earth contact. ...

Thanks Buddy, for shedding some light on this. Let me ask; if the lawn is in pretty good condition where aeration would be sufficient treatment (hardly any deadspots), would it be adequate to do the overseeding with something like a drop spreader as opposed to getting a slit seeder or verticut machine? Thanks again.

[RRS]

would it be adequate to do the overseeding with something like a drop spreader

Yes, without a doubt. What we do is make 1-2 passes with the aerator, then spread the seed, then make one more pass. We schedule the Sept-Oct. fertilizer application to go down within a day or so after the seeding. Just make sure you're charging enough for the time it takes to do it right. Also make sure that the seed gets plenty of water. If we aren't getting natural rainfall I generally water 20-30 minutes per zone 5 days a week until the grass appears. After that, 20-30 minutes per zone 3 days per week.

I've been using this method on properties I've been maintaining for 3-4 years now with excellent results.

[br549oicu8]

Excellent advice Casey!!!
I would suggest a broadcast spreader instead of a drop spreader. With some practice, you will be much more accurate with that type of spreader.
The lawns that just need a slight "tune up" are a great candidate for aerate and seed. This is also a much quicker task for you or your crew.
If you decide to purchase an aerator I noticed another forum on that subject. I have a Ryan Lawnaire V and a TA-25 Classen split drive as well as a 60" 3-point Classen for the back of my L-3710 Kubota. All work well and I am sure many have a favorite. Try out a few and then make a "comfort" oriented decision as aerating is hard work!!!!!
Good luck!!
Buddy

[vdeegan]

Yes, without a doubt. What we do is make 1-2 passes with the aerator, then spread the seed, then make one more pass. ...

Thanks RRS. I was just curious (excuse my ignorance), but does the extra pass after the seeding is done help to maneuver the seed down to the dirt? Thanks again.

[RRS]

I was just curious (excuse my ignorance), but does the extra pass after the seeding is done help to maneuver the seed down to the dirt? Thanks again.

You got it. The more seed that is in contact with the soil the higher the germination rate will be.

[vdeegan]

... Try out a few and then make a "comfort" oriented decision as aerating is hard work!!!!!

Thanks again Buddy. Here's another dumb question; could you tell me what part of aerating is the hard part? I know it's a very heavy machine, but I figure it's self-propelled. Is it in the turning? Or the loading/unloading? I just want to make sure this is something a one-man show can do.
Thanks.

[RRS]

Is it in the turning?

If you're using a walkbehind turning is the most difficult part of the operation. You either have to manhandle the thing around while it's moving or stop the motion and pivot it around on the front wheel weight. If that makes any sense. Either way it'll wear you out so price accordingly.

[vdeegan]

Thanks yall for the great info. I'm learning a ton of stuff here. Dumb question #99: Do you try to overseed about a month prior to when the regular grass goes dormant (goes dormant around Dec. here in DFW area), or earlier? I'm assuming it takes about a month after seeding, for the Rye to fill in. Thanks again.

[RRS]

I can't help you much with that question because 95% of the time I'm overseeding cool season grass with cool season grass seed. Usually overseeding fescue with fescue. On occasion we've overseeded bermuda with rye, and I try to wait until the average daytime temps are in the 70's.

I'm in a tough transition zone here. Even using the best agronomic practices available we still lose a portion of our cool season grasses every season and must re-seed nearly every fall to keep the lawns lush and full. Basically, warm season grasses thrive in the summer, but suffer from the cool temps in the spring and fall. The cool season grass thrives in the temperate spring and fall, but suffers during our hot (usually) dry summers.

[vdeegan]

... I would suggest a broadcast spreader instead of a drop spreader. With some practice, you will be much more accurate with that type of spreader. ...

Buddy,
Since a drop spreader is already pretty accurate I was wondering why you suggested a broadcast spreader. Is it because the broadcast is faster or is there another reason? Since I already have a drop spreader, I'm just trying to justify buying a broadast spreader too. Thanks.

[RRS]

You'll need both. The drop spreader is nice around beds and areas you don't want to throw seed, but the coverage area is not nearly as wide as a nice broadcast spreader. Check out these spreaders this is what I use.

[vdeegan]

Thanks Casey!!

[br549oicu8]

A good broadcast spreader will save you time and energy. The top of the line spreaders have a side deflector that you can lower to keep see away from beds, etc. The concentraion of a drop spreader leaves too much room for error in my book.
As far as aeration being tough....it is the turning part...which most machines will require raising the times out of the ground to do. If you had a long open stretch it isn't bad at all. The Classen split drive does allow a good amount of turing with the tines in the ground so it is a good choice.
As ar as seeding time....that is a local situation. We seed now until the first week of October but I am in Kansas!!!!!
Good luck and that smart guy asks......not assumes!!!
Way to go!!!
Buddy