applying fert and pre m

[tycoon]

I am wondering if it is ok to apply fertilizer and pre-m combo this time of year? I've heard people on this forum say TruGreen, etc has already done round 1. This is on a lawn that has a crabgrass problem and I want to get rid of it before it starts. Should I apply the combo or just pre-m. By the way its on bermuda grass in AL.

thanks for the help

[Ric]

What is your soil Temperature????

[tycoon]

soil temp

Not sure, haven't checked it. But temps around Alabama have been between 50 and 60 degrees for a few weeks???
Thanks for any help ric.

[steve-o]

around here i think you need the soil temp to be about 55 degrees for 3 days in a row. i am sure ric can explain it better. i see guys out there but like ric said in earlier posts...... r and r. $$$$$$$ means everthing .

steve

[Ric]

Not sure, haven't checked it. But temps around Alabama have been between 50 and 60 degrees for a few weeks???
Thanks for any help ric.

Tycoon

Soil temperature is the Key to applying Pre emerge. Crab grass Germinates at 55 degrees and you must apply it just before the soil reaches that temperature. That is universal both cool and warm season turf. However Warm season turf you fert heavy Nitrogen at the same time for early Green up.

Whether you use a combined product or make two application becomes a management decision. Combined products are more Expensive and limit your ability to tweak your applications, But they do save labor.

[tycoon]

Thanks for the help. I think I'm going to play it safe and go with a pre m granular, and when temps start to rise and it gets closer to spring I will apply a regular no weed control fert. Especially since this customer doesn't really care about the money, she just wants it weed free and green. One other question, how do you guys test the soil temp? Is it posted on the weather channel or do you use a thermometer or what? Maybe i should start another thread but, I plan on aerating this customers lawn also, but since I'm going to apply pre m in a week or two, and regular fert in april, should I aerate then fertilize with the regular fert? Or does it matter. I believe its better to fert after aeration b/c you get deep root penetration. The reason I asked this question to begin with is b/c I heard if you fertlize the lawn too much before winter it will cause problems in the spring, but I suppose that doesn't apply if you fert right before spring... sorry for such a long thread.

Thanks again.

[jrservices]

Thanks for the help. I think I'm going to play it safe and go with a pre m granular, and when temps start to rise and it gets closer to spring I will apply a regular no weed control fert. Especially since this customer doesn't really care about the money, she just wants it weed free and green. One other question, how do you guys test the soil temp? Is it posted on the weather channel or do you use a thermometer or what? Maybe i should start another thread but, I plan on aerating this customers lawn also, but since I'm going to apply pre m in a week or two, and regular fert in april, should I aerate then fertilize with the regular fert? Or does it matter. I believe its better to fert after aeration b/c you get deep root penetration. The reason I asked this question to begin with is b/c I heard if you fertlize the lawn too much before winter it will cause problems in the spring, but I suppose that doesn't apply if you fert right before spring... sorry for such a long thread.

Thanks again.

...............You sure wouldn't want to aerate after fertilizing with a combination product. Doing that will estroy your pre-em barrier. I would Aerate first.

[Ric]

...............You sure wouldn't want to aerate after fertilizing with a combination product. Doing that will estroy your pre-em barrier. I would Aerate first.

JR

It has been proved that Aeration doesn't break the Pre Emerge Barrier.

Tycoon

Yes Fert after aerating. If you have a heavy Clay or very sandy soil, Organic top dressing can be the best thing for it. If cost is not a factor look at Bridge products type Fertilizer. A bridge product is both Organic and Synthetic Fert.

[jrservices]

JR

It has been proved that Aeration doesn't break the Pre Emerge Barrier.

Tycoon

Yes Fert after aerating. If you have a heavy Clay or very sandy soil, Organic top dressing can be the best thing for it. If cost is not a factor look at Bridge products type Fertilizer. A bridge product is both Organic and Synthetic Fert.

I still wouldn't do it.

[tycoon]

Ok, I was planning to go to lesco, but I'll look into Bridge products. I plan on doing pre m first or second week in march, and aeration and regular fert 6-8 weeks after that. This is a bermuda lawn, that has had only one fert per year(another lawn service) and she called me last week about doing her lawn this year. The grass is fairly sparse and thin, thatch build up, etc. I'm hoping aeration and a good fert program this year will revive it. If you can suggest another form of attacking this, let me know. I'm going to do a soil sample next week.
Tycoon

[Ric]

Ok, I was planning to go to lesco, but I'll look into Bridge products. I plan on doing pre m first or second week in march, and aeration and regular fert 6-8 weeks after that. This is a bermuda lawn, that has had only one fert per year(another lawn service) and she called me last week about doing her lawn this year. The grass is fairly sparse and thin, thatch build up, etc. I'm hoping aeration and a good fert program this year will revive it. If you can suggest another form of attacking this, let me know. I'm going to do a soil sample next week.
Tycoon

Tycoon

Bermuda can be as easy as it gets to manage but it does require a lot of Fert water and Sun. Sounds like you are heading in the right direction, but to be 100% honest. I don't know enough about your area to really be of much help to you.

JR

Do as you wish, I am only telling you what University studies have shown.

[tycoon]

Ok, well thanks for the help, Ric and Jr.

[CCLS]

Do not forget that one lb of product will give you approx. one month of residual. Do not skimp on product if you are applying your product early, because you might have a late summer. Having a late summer means cooler temps than normal and above average rainfall which also determine the effectiveness of the product.

[timturf]

crabgrass germinates when soil temps reaches 55 degrees at the 3" depth AT SUNRISE for 3 consecutive days Now how soon before that you apply depends on a lot of factors. In warm season turfgrass, green up should closely follow the 55 degree rule, so I suggest using a high k, low pre emerge product if you apply real early, if you apply close too the germination time, then use something with more n

If turfgrass is thin, push hard after the last killing frost.

[Ric]

Do not forget that one lb of product will give you approx. one month of residual. Do not skimp on product if you are applying your product early, because you might have a late summer. Having a late summer means cooler temps than normal and above average rainfall which also determine the effectiveness of the product.

WRONG

CCLS

Broad general statement like the one I just highlighted is what gets you in trouble. You are certainly a Provider of Misinformation and should include that Statement in your signature.

Residual of any chemical in a Rhizoshere depends on many factors. Soil CEC and Infiltration Properties to name two. Activity Index of the Chemical itself also plays a very big roll. You might want to look up those Terms you have no idea of, via Google.

You would be best advised to ask questions and read answers instead of trying to be Mr. Know It All.