measuring soil temps.....for crabgrass

[steve-o]

if you are using the soil temp method to apply pre-em, at what depth do you measure? 4", 3", 2", 1", and, .5". explain why please......................


steve

[TRANSMAN]

Seriously does it really really make a difference off paper

if you are using the soil temp method to apply pre-em, at what depth do you measure? 4", 3", 2", 1", and, .5". explain why please......................


steve

I dont know steeve but from 1 day to the next if the temperature changes 5 or 10 degrees what happens then ?????

Down in FL when the sun comes out the soil probably changes 20 degrees in 20 minutes....:laughing:

This stuff your talking about wont explode if you tip toe on it will it??????:laughing:

Sounds like your useing highly unstable nitroglycerin for your pre-em so do ya warn the roaches to be careful running around...

And do ya wear Kevlar and a blast jacket during the apps??????

T-puttycat-quaker- boy-cereal-and-oats-T

[Dreamaloud1]

if you are using the soil temp method to apply pre-em, at what depth do you measure? 4", 3", 2", 1", and, .5". explain why please......................


steve

Is this a trick question or a real one? I would also like to know the answer to it though. It was 35 last week, 70 today, and back in the low 50s over the weekend. I'm looking more for seeding info than pre-em but it would be nice to know.

[steve-o]

no trick question...............

Is this a trick question or a real one? I would also like to know the answer to it though. It was 35 last week, 70 today, and back in the low 50s over the weekend. I'm looking more for seeding info than pre-em but it would be nice to know.

go to that other thread i had about checking a site out. that will give you soil temps for the beach area. you just need to check out the correct soil temp for whatever it is you are planting and how many days you need.


steve

[TRANSMAN]

Come on steevee-ooo

go to that other thread i had about checking a site out. that will give you soil temps for the beach area. you just need to check out the correct soil temp for whatever it is you are planting and how many days you need.


steve

I only commented because ya got 33 looks and nobody was even replying to the thread.....

Juice this thing up a bit and at least start throwing some crumbs to get some interested.....

Forget the "Check the site crap out" who wants to go read someplace else?????:laughing:

Or you gonna let this thread just peeeeter on out without even a fizzle ??????

Ya Bud ,

Trannyquake triple -TTT

[steve-o]

not a problem..............

I only commented because ya got 33 looks and nobody was even replying to the thread.....

Juice this thing up a bit and at least start throwing some crumbs to get some interested.....

Forget the "Check the site crap out" who wants to go read someplace else?????:laughing:

Or you gonna let this thread just peeeeter on out without even a fizzle ??????

Ya Bud ,

Trannyquake triple -TTT

all you so called fricking pesticide p u s s y guys who claim to know everything, how bout responding or shut the frick up in the future. WAS THAT GOOD ENOUGH TRANNYQUAKE? :laughing:

steve-ooooo

[Sammy]

Crabgrass being a shallow rooted plant, I would think that take the temp at 2-3 inchs should do it.

[katisan]

Last year our company invested in a wireless soil temperature set-up which we installed on the grounds by the office. The temperature probes are left in the ground year-round and data stored on the computer. We measure soil temperature at a 2" depth for crabgrass management. We also have another probe set at 5" for other reasons.

[steve-o]

thank you........

Crabgrass being a shallow rooted plant, I would think that take the temp at 2-3 inchs should do it.

correct, crabgrass is very shallow rooted.

Last year our company invested in a wireless soil temperature set-up which we installed on the grounds by the office. The temperature probes are left in the ground year-round and data stored on the computer. We measure soil temperature at a 2" depth for crabgrass management. We also have another probe set at 5" for other reasons.

correct, 2" is what i found in my vast studies to be the correct answer. what's the 5" probe for if you don't mind sharing?

steve

[katisan]

Steve-o, the reason for the 5" probe is a company secret. I will only tell you it is for monitoring the soil temperatures at a 5" depth year round. Send me a gift and I might tell the rest.

[lawrence stone]

"Crabgrass begins to germinate when the temperature in the upper inch of soil reaches 55 to 58°F at daybreak for 4-5 days. Phenotypic indicators such as forsythia bloom are not consistently reliable for determining crabgrass herbicide application or germination. "

"As a general rule, the best time to apply preemergence materials is approximately 10-14 days prior to the expected germination period in spring."

http://turfgrassmanagement.psu.edu/angrweeds.cfm

[steve-o]

thank you professor STONE......

"Crabgrass begins to germinate when the temperature in the upper inch of soil reaches 55 to 58°F at daybreak for 4-5 days. Phenotypic indicators such as forsythia bloom are not consistently reliable for determining crabgrass herbicide application or germination. "

"As a general rule, the best time to apply preemergence materials is approximately 10-14 days prior to the expected germination period in spring."

http://turfgrassmanagement.psu.edu/angrweeds.cfm

that's got some good stuff in it.

steve

[timturf]

Read a study done in mid 80's in Maryland I believe...results where

Soil temp is 55 degrees at the 3" depth,. MEASURED AT sunrise for 3 consectutive days for crabgrass germination. I believe goosegrass germination needs 5 more degrees. When in the gc business, I never applied pre emerge until this was reached.. I never had a problem..almost 20yrs of no failure...I still use this principle until the last few years in lawn care, but I could apply all my pre emerge in 4-5 days. Remember, a wet soil will warm up later, and consider where the soil themoter is placed...should be in a full sun area for the complete day, and average turfgrass density

granular application needs rainfall or irrigation to create a full barrier

[steve-o]

you have my attention..................

Read a study done in mid 80's in Maryland I believe...results where

Soil temp is 55 degrees at the 3" depth,. MEASURED AT sunrise for 3 consectutive days for crabgrass germination. I believe goosegrass germination needs 5 more degrees. When in the gc business, I never applied pre emerge until this was reached.. I never had a problem..almost 20yrs of no failure...I still use this principle until the last few years in lawn care, but I could apply all my pre emerge in 4-5 days. Remember, a wet soil will warm up later, and consider where the soil themoter is placed...should be in a full sun area for the complete day, and average turfgrass density

granular application needs rainfall or irrigation to create a full barrier

i had a small problem with goosegrass last season. only a couple of yards, but that is two too many. i used granular and hit it good this year with rain. however, i'm not in that window for goosegrass. my second app will go down in mid-may. should i wait or go earlier from your results ???? my first apps were the first week of march.


steve

[timturf]

i had a small problem with goosegrass last season. only a couple of yards, but that is two too many. i used granular and hit it good this year with rain. however, i'm not in that window for goosegrass. my second app will go down in mid-may. should i wait or go earlier from your results ???? my first apps were the first week of march.


steve

I don't believe in split applications. Will be making my first and only pre emerge application using barricade the first week of april. In my location 1/2 between richmond and washington dc, the average date for the soil temps to reach the proper temp is april the 20, 20 year history. My intention this year was to move my date up to 3/1 to 3/15, with a higher % quick release nitrogen source with my pre emerge to get better root growth with very little leaf growth out of fert app. Problem was, my material fell behind. I prefer barricade over dimension, less root prunning

Just my thought and experience

tim