Fertilizer knowledge?

[KaufmanInc.]

I'm a student of the Industry and want to learn more. I'll be back on the terf next year and would like some advice on Fert's. I'll be getting my applicators license so that's covered. I need to learn how, what, when & why's of fert. I need expert advice without a bunch of fluff. Where do ya all recommend? I will be operating in Mid-Central to Southern parts of Illinois.
Thanks

[Phil Nilsson]

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Phil Nilsson
Nilsson Associates Consultants
Visit Lawn Service & Landscaping Book Store



Edited by - phil nilsson on Jun 06 2002 6:57:04 PM

[KaufmanInc.]

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Thanks...what a great site!!

[bobkessler]

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To Kaufman,
It's nice to see you looking for education. Basically, all fertilizer bags come with a label on the bag itself that it full of information. A lot of it is generic, but a good idea is to go in a lawn department at Home Depot or wherever and flip over several bags and just read them. You will really learn a lot. Consider buying your product from a professional distributor like Lesco. They will help you. Lastly, visit your local county agriculture extension office. They should have plenty of easy to read information on modern fertilizers.
There's lots to learn about this great business. I'm glad you're joining us. Any more like you out there!

[Ric]

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KaufmanInc.

There are 17 elements needed by plants. Oxygen Hydrogen and Carbon are free elements. However the other 14 must be available to the plant either in the soil or by foliar application. Below is a Copy & paste from one of my books. It is copyrighted. I am only posting the primary element N-P-K from the first chapter. There are spelling error because this is a ruff draft copy. I hope this helps you.

Nitrogen, N, causes cell elongation and division (growth). It is important for the development of all tissue in a plant, but it is most important for leaf growth Nitrogen fully translocates systemically within the plant and leaches readily from the soil. Pound for pound it is one of the cheapest fertilizer chemicals to produce and shows the greatest response (green) in plants. For this reason fertilizer manufacturers overuse this product.

Nitrogen Deficiencies, cause reduced growth rate of the entire plant, then loss of color on the older leaves. Then older leaves turn yellow and a general decline occurs on the entire plant.

Phosphorus, P, is important in root development, flowering, fruiting, and germination. Phosphorus fully translocates systemically within the plant and is subject to leaching in the soil depending on its form. The Jacksonville area of Florida. has a problem with phosphorus contamination. Our area is rich in phosphorus and it has been mined here since the 1890s to the present. Most fertilizer blends sold in our area are low in phosphorus. The need for high phosphorus blend fertilizer is new sod, sod plugs, gardenias, and bird of paradise plants.

Phosphorus Deficiencies, cause purpling of lower leaves first, then move on up the plant and reduce flower production.

Potassium, K, develops vascular flow, which is important for flowering, stem strength, vigor, disease resistance and overall hardiness. Its most important contribution is root development for drought stress resistance. Potassium fully translocates systemically in the plant. Potassium leaches readily from the soil. I personally like to use potassium on a one to one ratio with nitrogen even though it is a more expensive fertilizer.

Potassium Deficiencies, first cause yellowing between veins of older leaves, then yellow specks in the veins. Leaves finally turn brown on the outside margin.

[mariner]

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Ric,
What is the proper lbs of nitro per 1000 when doing a foliar(liquid) app of fert? I'm guessing 1/4 lb per thousand? Thanks.

[Ric]

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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mariner</i>
<br />Ric,
What is the proper lbs of nitro per 1000 when doing a foliar(liquid) app of fert? I'm guessing 1/4 lb per thousand? Thanks.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Good question too bad there is not a simple answer. I am not sure I can answer you. However most C4 health turf on average will absorb about .10 lb of N/K per day. Sorry I am not sure about C3 turf. 2 to 3 days for abortion is about tops with out rain or irrigation. So 1/4 lb would work. However there are a lot of other factors that play a part in the field. What are the needs of your turf? What time of the year. The more hours of sunlight the more N is aborted. The Human factor tell us to pound a stressed area when if fact the plant can't absorb that much and the extra salt hurts instead of helps. Health turf will abort more N because it is used to having N etc. Also what about Which form of nitrogen we apply certainly Potassium nitrate will get in quicker than Urea etc. Yep it is a real real good question and I wished I had the answer for you. I think only you can fine the right number for you. I can only help you. However lets not turn this into a match like the one we had with Stone.

[mariner]

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I defintitely don't want to get into another match. I appreciate your response. I'm not sure yet if I will be spraying fert yet this year. I have the tank but I also have plenty of dry fert for the season. If I did spray, it would be in April and May for the first application.

[Ric]

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Mariner

I have done it both ways. All Granular and all Liquid. I have found a little bit of both fills my needs. My needs are based on both Economical and Agronomical. I don't even know where you are so it is hard to really help you. But if you are successful with granules stay with them. When you have a stressed area that needs an extra shot in a hurry try liquid.

Lets talk in general
Liquids are fast response and low residual.
Granules are slow response and long residual.

Straight granular ferts are cheaper or more cost effective than pesticide blends of fertilizer.

For above ground insects liquids are faster response and more cost effective.

Subterranean insect, granule insecticide is better response and effective. They’re then economical.

Fungus is best treated with liquid Fungicides. Systemic are a must on many. However surfactants can make contacts systemic. Fungus needs a fast knock down. Fungus has a long recover period.

Herbicides have better response if liquid is applied in high active ingredient and low volume per thousand.

The above is just general and there are exceptions to it. Let me know what zone and soil type you have and I will lead you Astray. I am better on C4 turf and calcareous sandy than Clay and C3. Therefore I might have to hand you off to Groundskeeper or Your good Buddy. []

[mariner]

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I'm in 5b and the soil is generally a mixture of sandy,silty and clay. We usually get the majority of spring rain in may.

[Ric]

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Mariner

I am in Zone 10A Calcareous sand. Sorry cannot give you great answers about your area. Maybe I can give general information about fertilizer or soil etc. With soil and tissue samples you can tank mix the perfect fertilizer. Remember one thing about liquid fert. What the leaves don’t absorb is washed off into the soil and can be up taken by the roots. When spraying any thing low pressure and large droplet size not only does not drift but stays wet longer on the leave surface. The longer the produce stays wet, the more is absorbed. Some people in my area try to put down more liquid fertilizer than the plant or the ground can hold. Most sand has a CEC of 5 and therefore it leaches into our surface and ground water. Your area should have higher CEC and less annual rainfall to leach it out. Therefore Salt built up can be a problem if you over fertilize. The rule of thumb is to fertilize light and frequent. This takes us back to slow release granules. Now since I am new to this Forum and don’t know everyone here. The only person I know who is in your area, a regular poster and knowledgeable is your Buddy L.S. Give him a try.

[mariner]

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Thats alright. He's a little too combative for me. I appreciate your input though. I have sprayed liquid fert numerous times but have never done the mixing personally. If I decide to spray, I will probably stick with the 1/4 lb N per 1000. I think i'll be safe yet effective at that rate. It'll only be the one application so its not a big part of my program. It'll just save me from having to pull out the spreader for one round while i'm hit'n the weeds.