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PH and establishing a quality lawn

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  • PH and establishing a quality lawn

    After reading Mariners post on soil testing, I got to thinking and I would appreciate input on the following:

    The dictionary tells us that Ph is a measure of acidity and alkalinity of a solution that is a number on a scale from 0 to 14, with a value of 7 representing neutrality.
    To have a good lawn you need a good Ph to establish a good fertility in the soil.
    The first step in establishing a quality lawn is to determine the fertility level of the soil you're working with. A soil test is the best way to do this.
    Soil testing and fertilizer application also cannot overcome problems associated with excess shade, thatch, or improper management, physical problems related to the plant root system, this includes: low areas in the lawn where there is excess soil moisture or compacted areas that do not allow adequate water and air movement in the soil. Turf grasses require a number of nutrients for growth. Three of these are carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, these are rarely lacking because of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and water in the soil.
    Three important nutrients needed by lawns are: (N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorus, and (K) potassium, these are called "macronutrients", and are usually supplied by fertilizers and called fertilizer elements.
    Nitrogen = helps give lawns green color and stimulates growth.
    Phosphorus = is needed for root growth and is important for turf grass establishment.
    Potassium = is second to nitrogen in the amount necessary for growth. It helps promote disease resistance, winter hardiness, and drought and traffic tolerance.
    Soil Acidity, is a factor that affects grass growth. It is measured in terms of a PH scale. Any number below 7 represents an acid soil, the lower the number the more the acid. Numbers above 7 denote an alkaline soil condition. Most turf grasses will grow with a ph between 6.0 and 6.5, some will not. Soils in good physical condition contain the approximate ratio of water, air, mineral and organic matter. Such soils promote good deep root development.

    Abscence of having a soil sample done on a lawn, and send to the county extension agent, what do you folks do to help in analyzing the needs of a lawn. Or do you buy a soil test kit. Or do you look for certain signs in the lawn.

  • #2
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    jack/this is an extremely important subject which i also would welcome as much expertise from our more experienced members as possible. would love to hear how what determines what would best benefit certain lawns and how often applications should take place at what times of the year.i am somewhat lacking in experience in this also.[xx(][?]

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    • #3
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      I have a PH meter.. You can find them at almost any home/garden center or nursery.. It looks like a cooking thermometer. You stick rod into the ground, leave it for 1 minute, come back and you have the PH of the soil in that location. The you can add the necessary fertilizer/lime/etc, to bring the soil back to neutral PH..

      The meter cost me $35 and can be re-used.. Soil tests that are sent to a lab, are more accurate but they also cost alot..
      Steve
      Quality Lawn Care & Landscape Management
      www.qualitylawncare.biz

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      • #4
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        When concerned strictly with PH the meters are excellent as Steve points out. I use one myself. A critical factor in assessing a soil's current condition is more than PH though. Organic matter and the presence of clay, silt or sand as well as micronutrients are also critical to building a turf that is both attractive and resistant to disease and drought.

        Relying strictly upon PH will lead you down a path of chasing the perfect PH. It is common for people to get a soil test done by a competent lab and use chemicals to bring it into balance. Soil by it's very nature is a "living organism" if you will allow me to use that term. Microorganisms break down organic matter such as mulched leaves and make the nutrients within available to the grass growing in the soil. Worms provide aeration and also break down organic matter so that it can be utilized by the grass. There is a big trend in mulching leaves these days but it can cause serious problems on a lawn where they follow a "Scott's Five Chemicals a Year" program. Mulched leaves require microorganisms and worms to break them down at a rate which is beneficial to the turf. Without the organisms to break the leaves down so that the nutrients within can be utilized by the grass mulched leaves are nothing more than an acid carpet. The typical chemically treated lawn with pre-emergents and weed and feeds etc. ad infinitum are virtually barren of microrganisms and worms due to the toxic nature of the soil and are more like inorganic hydroponics than turfgrass soil science. Be careful what you put on a lawn to make it look pretty and concentrate on putting something down that will make it real soil and support all that is needed for a rich, disease resistant turfgrass.

        Sorry, went off on a tangent. Just had a couple of beers with a fellow LCO who was complaining about having to wear respirators for chemical applications in the heat this past summer. RESPIRATORS???!!! If you need to wear a respirator you should be spraying epoxy paint and not trying to encourage a healthy soil and turfgrass enviroment.
        It's more than just a science, it is an art.

        Keth

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        • #5
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          sounds like my biology class,, good stuff[]
          Steve
          Quality Lawn Care & Landscape Management
          www.qualitylawncare.biz

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          • #6
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            Keth,
            you seem to be well versed in the area. Correct me if I misunderstand. Micronutrients which are also called trace elements, are things like copper, iron, manganese, zinc and others. Lawns generally use micronutrients in such small amounts, that the soil itself provides a sufficient amount. A deficieny of one or more of the elements can limit growth though. As you mentioned sandy soils; is it true that micronutrient deficiencies are most likely to occur in sandy soils when grass is heavily fertilized, and the clippings have been removed. I guess my question is do you have to watch the micronutrients much closer with sandy soils than you do with other soils. Are they not as much a factor with good rich soils. That is why I thought I should have a better understanding of macronutrients.

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            • #7
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              Jack,

              Good, rich soils have a better balance of nutrients while sandy soils are high in some nutrients and lacking in others, so yes you should watch for a lack of nutrients more in the sandy soil. You can usually notice if there is unbalanced soil, the lawn will usually change color and can die if the that nutrient lack doesn't get replenished.. Everything else you said was true..
              Steve
              Quality Lawn Care & Landscape Management
              www.qualitylawncare.biz

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              • #8
                reply

                What you need is a lab soil test. This will give you a number for the soil's buffer pH as well s the cation exchange capacity (CEC). The buffer pH used to determine the soils ability to acidify in a buffered solution and will tell you HOW MUCH LIME is needed to correct the pH. The CEC gives you the nutrient holding ability of YOUR type of soil. Lesco will lab test soil for about $12.00 and gives you all the info you need.

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                • #9
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                  not sure how fast Lesco returns your results to you but I know I can go to my local county extention and for $8 I can get results in about 7 days.

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                  • #10
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                    I only used the Lesco test once but it took 3 days to get it back and cost $10..
                    Steve
                    Quality Lawn Care & Landscape Management
                    www.qualitylawncare.biz

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                    • #11
                      reply

                      Jack,
                      Yes, sandy soils can be tough as they hold nutrients very poorly. Fertilizing very sandy soils can be futile since the fertilizer will rarely stay in the rootzone after a good rain. They do drain well though! Most texts on soil science will suggest increasing the amount of organic matter, silt and even clay in extremely sandy soils so as to provide the ability to hold the nutrients until they are available to the plants contained therein.

                      Cheers,
                      Keth

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                      • #12
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                        Guys (Ladies?,
                        Have the test done as part of your practice! It creates a professional image and gives you a "baseline" to start with! Not all lawns are created equal! I use the Lesco test, $12, and charge $15. I tell customer 2 weeks for results and it hasn't been a problem. You now have all the info you need for soil amendments! It has set me apart from my competition! Good luck!

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